Grampians / Gariwerd

Note that CSV operates as Crag Volunteers in Gariwerd.

Crag Volunteers acknowledges the Wotjobaluk, Eastern Maar and Gunditjmara peoples as the Traditional Owners of Gariwerd and their ongoing connections with it. We acknowledge the continuation of cultural, spiritual and educational practices of these Traditional Custodians and we pay respect to their Elders, past present and emerging.

Popular Climbing Areas in Gariwerd

Climbing and Bouldering in Gariwerd is only permitted in Designated Climbing Areas. Please respect the protection of cultural and natural values by only climbing in these areas – see the section later on this page for more information.

Gariwerd is an enormous area with hundreds of individual climbing areas spread throughout it. To be able to support this region effectively, we have divided our resources into three major areas, each with a regional steward and a team of crag stewards:

  • Northern Gariwerd – all crags north of Asses Ears in the west and the Plantation Campground in the East
  • Central Gariwerd – covers all of the Halls Gap area, but also takes in all the crags in the Mount William and Serra Ranges as far as Dunkeld
  • South Western Gariwerd – All the crags south and west of the Victoria Valley ie Victoria Range, Harrop Track, Chimney Pots

Traditional Owners

Traditional Ownership of Gariwerd is cooperatively shared between three groups, collectively known as the Gariwerd Traditional Owners:

Click on the links to get more information an each of these Traditional Owners and their Country Plans.

Gariwerd is of tremendous significance to each of these groups and has an extremely rich cultural heritage which includes around 90% of Aboriginal art sites in Victoria and much tangible evidence of shelter, hunting and quarrying. A key focus of the management plan, mentioned below, is to protect and restore sites of significant cultural value and allow rediscovery of lost heritage.

Here is a link to a Gariwerd creation story:  https://budjabudjacoop.org.au/about/gariwerdgrampians/

In past years, climbing was developed at a number of sites in Gariwerd that are of significant cultural value to Traditional Owners. The activity of climbing as well as the placement of bolts and chalk at these sites is regarded as harmful and inappropriate and has caused significant distress. Climbing is now only permitted in Designated Climbing Areas (see more information below) and CSV strongly encourages climbers to respect these limits.

Management

Gariwerd is jointly managed by the Gariwerd Traditional Owners and Parks Victoria, directed by a newly created management plan: GGLMP.

This plan specifically addresses aspects of climbing in Gariwerd including:

  • Designated Climbing Areas
  • Climbing Permits
  • Use of coloured chalk
  • Use of designated tracks where they exist

Designated Climbing Areas

Due to the significant overlap between climbing areas and sites of cultural importance the management plan has specified that climbing can only occur in Designated Climbing Areas. These areas have been surveyed for cultural heritage and determined to be suitable for climbing.

Parks Victoria maintains a list of designated climbing and bouldering areas that can be found as a link on their website. This list will be updated as designated climbing areas are added, or removed.

Rock Climbing Visitor Guide

The principles used to determine how these decisions are made are documented in a Rock Climbing Decision Framework.

Climbing Areas to be Reviewed

The GGLMP also lists over 200 climbing sites that require cultural surveys to be conducted before they can be determined as suitable for climbing, or not. The climbing community, via the interim representative group CVAC, has nominated a list of 50 sites to be prioritised for the Assessment and Determination process. Funding has been secured for this work and it currently underway.

Prohibited Climbing Areas

Climbing Areas that are not listed as a DCA or a Climbing Area for Review may be prohibited for a couple of reasons: the area may have been surveyed and determined to require protection of significant cultural or natural values; the area may be in a management zone that excludes climbing to protect cultural or natural values.

CSV encourages climbers to respect the protection cultural and natural values by climbing only in Designated Climbing Areas.

Climbing Permits

Parks Victoria is developing a mandatory climbing permit system for individuals to climb in Greater Gariwerd.  According to PV, the system is intended as a vehicle for:

  1. Induction – whereby the cultural and natural heritage of the region and the conditions for climbing in it can be explained and acknowledged by each climber before they climb.
  2. Communication – whereby changes to conditions for climbing or the status of climbing areas can be communicated directly and promptly.

Climbing can occur in the DCAs without a permit until the permit system is established

Coloured Chalk

Climbers are required to minimise chalk use and to restrict it to chalks that are coloured to suit the rock.

This requirement is consistent with CSV’s recommended best practice for climbing throughout Victoria.

Use of Designated Tracks

Climbers are required to use designated tracks, where they exist, to access climbing areas.

CSV encourages climbers to use designated trails where possible in any climbing area. See our section on trails for further advice.

Crags in Gariwerd

We will try to keep this section updated with priorities and projects identified out of our monitoring program.

Northern Gariwerd

Taipan Wall

The Gariwerd traditional Owners have recognised the significance of Taipan Wall to the climbing community and have closely assessed the area to determine that certain routes can be climbed in a northern section of the wall.  The following attachment details these routes and the areas where climbing or access is prohibited.

Gunigalg/Taipan Information Sheet

CSV thanks the Traditional Owners of Gariwerd for their work and consideration in coming to this position and we ask all climbers to make themselves familiar with the details of this permission and respect the exclusions.

Central Gariwerd

The Watchtower

CSV has been documenting the deterioration in the condition of the access trail and platform shoring, particularly in the Silvertop area. PV have completed the restoration of the access trail from the base of the cliff up to the base of the Silvertop Gully. Beyond that point the gully remains unstable until further shoring works can be completed.

Mt Rosea

We have raised the need to clear and maintain this trail to a minimum standard to avoid detours and bypasses that will cause further disturbance and erosion. CSV has raised a project via ParkConnect and is waiting for approval.

South West Gariwerd